Elie Saab: From Beirut to the Pinnacle of Haute Couture

Elie Saab’s journey from his humble beginnings in Lebanon to his acceptance into the exclusive circles of haute couture in Paris is legendary. Saab fearlessly launched his fashion label in Beirut at the tender age of 18. His first show, held in 1982 at Casino du Liban, was a notable event. He recalls how the next day's newspapers juxtaposed articles about his collection with images of the Lebanese War, a striking contrast that highlighted the turbulent context in which he began his career.

Saab's international breakthrough came in 1997 when he became the first non-Italian designer to showcase at Rome Fashion Week. This milestone catapulted him onto the global stage. This year, Saab achieved another significant milestone by opening his first U.S. flagship on Madison Avenue in New York, marking his continued expansion and influence in the fashion world.

After debuting his Fall/Winter 2017–18 Haute Couture collection, which he describes as his most embellished and opulent to date, Saab spoke with Whitewall about his journey, his inspirations, and his commitment to supporting emerging artists and creative talents in Beirut.

Saab began his fashion journey by cutting patterns and creating dresses for his sisters, cousins, and neighbors. From a young age, he viewed the world differently, observing the people around him—their walk, their dress. He saw them not as they were, but as they could be, dressed differently. He noticed every misstep—the wrong color, the wrong length, a skirt too short, a jacket too tight. His perspective on women always aimed to underline their elegance and femininity. These early observations and circumstances led him to where he is today.

Launching a fashion label in Beirut at just 18 was challenging, especially since Lebanon didn’t have a well-established fashion industry. Saab’s parents were initially apprehensive about his choice; they would have preferred a more secure career for him. Teaching himself much of the business, Saab persisted and remained committed to his dream. He’s always been hard on himself, striving to do better. Success requires hard work and belief in one’s creations. When success came, his parents were reassured and supported his decision.

Designing haute couture continues to drive Saab because it offers limitless creativity. There are no boundaries to what he can create or what the atelier can produce. His designs bring his clients' dreams to life. Saab believes he hasn't yet created the perfect dress and feels there's always room to push creative boundaries further.

Being the first non-Italian designer to show at Rome Fashion Week marked the start of Saab’s international career. Rome was a critical step towards Paris. Showcasing a Fall/Winter Couture collection there was incredible, with significant press and clients from around the world. It was an unforgettable experience that received rave reviews.

Saab maintains a balance of simplicity and glamour in his designs while staying true to the timeless Elie Saab codes. Women are his inspiration for each collection; he aims to enhance their beauty. The waist is central to the silhouette, and he designs around it. Simplicity and glamour are achieved through light fabrics like mousseline and lace, which create movement and flow.

Of all the titles Saab has been given, he prefers “the Lebanese designer Elie Saab.” He is immensely proud to represent his country and region in both a creative and business capacity. The journey has been challenging, and he is grateful to those who believed in his work. This pride and responsibility to uphold what he’s achieved give him the greatest satisfaction.